伊朗行《7》--- 不同的遭遇

以下是一位記者去年在伊朗採訪時的遭遇:

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"暗角

翻譯阿麥德給我講過一個故事, 他的女兒莎哈爾小的時候最喜歡不穿鞋,光著腳丫在雨中玩, 每次都是渾身濕漉漉的回家. 可是到了她9歲生日的那一天, 按照伊朗法律, 她必須要參加一個成人禮, 在那一天, 她將披上頭巾, 從此不可將頭髮顯露於外人面前. 別的女孩子欣然接受的時候, 莎哈爾卻拿著頭巾, 對爸爸說, 爸爸, 我再也不能感覺到雨水打在頭髮上了. 望著莎哈爾的眼睛, 阿麥德衝進洗手間, 淚濕滿面.

前兩天我穿著一件白色的長衫, 去大巴扎拍片. 那裡琳瑯滿目的讓人心慌, 因為人太多,聲音太嘈雜, 讓我忍不住的鎖緊眉頭.阿麥德是個絕頂聰明的人, 看我的神情, 於是站在我的身邊, 靠牆而立, 司機和dee還有R先生, 將我環繞. 可是那來來往往的男人眼神中骯髒的氣息,已經足以讓我感覺到窒息. 結果即便是這樣, 15分鐘之後, 一個男人居然還是潛伏到樓上的那一層, 對著我吐下口水, 白衣服, 藍色的頭巾, 我的同伴們臉上的憐憫, 周圍的人一副看好戲的表情, 真是想大罵一場, NNND甚麼狗屎國家, 我為你的文明而來, 而你將我如此羞辱. 但是我最後還是咬緊牙關, 沒有發出聲音.

最難過的卻不是我.

阿麥德一言不發的在車上看著窗外的飛過風景, 我問他說你怎麼了, 他說你不知道我有多抱歉和多難堪. 我說那並不是你的錯, 他說, 可是這就是我的祖國, 那些人就是我的兄弟, 你說我該拿我的人民怎麼辦? 我問, 有沒有想過離開這裡, 你去過那麼多國家, 去任何一個地方, 都會過的很好. 他說, 可是我怎麼能逃避我自己的家, 它在我的血液裡面, 是我無法迴避的部分啊.

回到住的地方, DEE突然跟我說, 幸虧帶了頭巾, 不然就直接吐到頭髮上了. 我聽完, 想起Simi跟我說, 裹在黑長袍裡面, 我覺得protected. 但是protected from what? 如果我因為受到今天這樣的羞辱, 而寧願躲藏在黑長袍的保護之下, 那麼到底是我變的文明了, 還是邪惡教化了我, 馴服了我, 我不要躲藏在暗角里面, 那裡太荒蠻, 太淒涼.

12點的時候, 毛拉的祈禱混合著歌聲響起, 很多人會在乾淨的毯子上, 向著麥加的方向, 跪拜他們的真主. 我的身體, 卻不由自主的轉向太陽的方向." Unquote

原文

G.O.D. forbid!

G.O.D. should design some products with logos like "P.T.U.", "C.I.D." or "O-Kee" to help promoting Hong Kong Police Force as a remedy. Haha!

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"G.O.D. forbid!

Carol Chung

Friday, November 02, 2007

A bid to turn a Hong Kong-made and designed T-shirt into a fashion icon for local youths has run foul of the law with the arrest of 18 people from a local chain store yesterday.

Police said the design on the T-shirts marketed by Goods of Desire - or G.O.D. as the store is popularly known - was linked to a triad society and that those who purchased them could also be arrested.

Possessing triad products is a violation of the law and people wearing a shirt with such logos will be arrested, Organized Crime Triad Bureau Acting Superintendent Cheng Fuk-chuen warned.

Police confiscated 88 T-shirts and more than 500 postcards printed with a "14K" logo, "? x K"- with the numbers written in Chinese characters - from the store's five offices and warehouse located in Central, Causeway Bay, Tsim Sha Tsui and Yuen Long. They arrested nine men and nine women, including salespersons and designers, aged between 21 and 51.

It is believed one of those arrested is the store's founder, Douglas Young Chi-chiu, who is a grandson of Kowloon Motor Bus founder William Louey Sui-tak.

They are suspected of contravening the Societies Ordinance, which refers to slogans, published materials and objects with symbolic meanings, and which police specialists have confirmed to be related to the triads. The police raid followed a recent media report on products the store was selling.

Cheng said the industry should be careful when designing products not to contravene the law.

"Creativity is creativity - that's different. The industry should study the legislation, which clearly states symbols representing or constituting triad symbols are illegal," Cheng said.

G.O.D.s marketing manager Cherry Ma Kit-ying insisted the logo was one of the store's usual designs and involved "a play on words."

Other examples include "Delay No More" - which sounds vulgar in Cantonese - printed on products, and home accessories with the store's name G.O.D. which sounds like the Cantonese words for "better living." The logo design was only intended to refer to gold rather than the triads, Ma said.

"Some may relate it to the triads ... we didn't have any intention to promote things [related to the triad]."

Ma stressed the store's innocent intention, saying "14K gold was marked on the back of the postcards."

Lawmaker James To Kun-sun, deputy chairman of the Legislative Council's security panel, said whether the controversial logo violates the law depends on how it is displayed and publicized, and whether it conveys any triad-related message.

People who have bought the products but are innocent about the meaning may not be charged. But if they act in a provocative way when wearing the T-shirt, they could be mistaken for a triad member, To said.

G.O.D. is recalling the T-shirts and postcards, which went on sale in mid- September.

So far, more than 10 T-shirts, costing HK$280 each, have been sold.

Police said those who have bought the products should call 2527-7887. "
Unquote

Source: The Standard

伊朗行《6》--- 邪惡的頭巾

這天的Persepolis風和日麗，正當我在Tomb of Darius the Great前沾沾自喜的看着剛用400D拍下的一名穿着傳统服飾的中年男士之際，一個穿得相對摩登的伊朗美少婦把我拉在一旁，友善的跟我說我並不應替此人拍照，心想：莫非他是一個神聖不可侵犯、十分顯赫的大人物，隨即問道：『他是何許人呢？』，她答說：『這裏對伊朗人來說，是一個很神聖、很重要的地方，而此人則是政府那兒的人，我們並不喜歡這個政府，因此，妳不應把他與此古蹟拉在一起。』

在途中所遇到的伊朗人大多不諳英語，於是對這個操流利英語的少婦Zarrin很感興趣，問道：『為何妳的英文這麽棒？』，她隨即介紹她那外籍夫婿跟我認識，我即恍然大悟，還順道請教她如何可令頭巾牢牢貼緊在頭上，並問道：『假如頭巾滑了下來怎麽辦？有什麽後果？』，她那外籍丈夫隨即道：『那就讓它掉下吧！不打緊！』

Zarrin跟着告訴我她也不喜歡戴頭巾，並希望有一天她們可以不戴這頭巾、不用再遵守這樣的法律。說罷，她便教我如何戴好頭巾、怎樣可讓頭巾不那麽容易掉下來云云；說時遲，那時快，領隊又嚷着要上車了，這是我最不喜歡参加旅行團的原因之一，只好跟他們道別，但不忘跟Zarrin來張『到此一遊』合照，可是我那邪惡的頭巾又除除的掉了下來。

願伊朗女人有一天不用再整天戴着那頭巾、不用再穿上那黑漆漆的長袍、可與非直繫親屬的男士有正常的社交，並不用再遵守那些過份守舊的法律。

願她們離這重獲自由的一天不太遙遠。

後記：最近通訊得悉原來Zarrin在美國住了超過二十年，難怪英文這麽好！

伊朗行《5》--- Little Miss Sunshine

伊朗行《4》--- 賠本生意

在伊朗，有三樣生意是做不得的，分別是女性時裝、理髮和纖體，雖然不少年輕的伊朗女性會在頭巾上花點心思，有些還會染髮，但衣著保守的法律一天不改，花錢在時裝、理髮和纖體幹啥呢？

伊朗行《3》--- 邪惡軸心?!

出發到這個被形容為『邪惡軸心』的伊朗前，無聊地在facebook發問了一個問題：Should I go to Iran? 怎料，無心一問，卻引來很大回嚮，很多親友認為我的決定很冒險、匪夷所思，力勸不要前往，但也有不少朋友對這個神祕的國家很有興趣，其中一位同事更說多年前曾到此作三星期旅遊，伊朗是她最喜歡的中東國家。

由於不想令家人擔心，臨走前只輕描淡寫、含含糊糊的告知母親要去中東旅行，但心中不免有點不安，怎料，一到達此地，竟對這『邪惡軸心』國完全改觀。

相信當地的旅遊業剛起步關係，伊朗人很少接觸亞洲遊客，對我們這批『奇裝異服』的遊客十分好奇，但也出奇的友善與好客，由於大多數的伊朗人不諳英語，與他們溝通須用上身體語言，為了買郵票寄Postcard給親友，更要畫圖畫解釋，最後得知郵票稱為"Tambr",可是找了幾天也找不到一間營業的郵局！

雖然很多時雞同鴨講，但可以看出伊朗人很好客和單純，可能由於是由伊斯蘭教統治的關係，法規很嚴苛、很保守，一般女士不可與非直繫親屬的男士有親密的接觸(包括握手)，電影絕無色情暴力成份，沒有夜生活，連啤酒也是沒酒精的，閒時一家大小喜往公園野餐共聚天倫，生活十分簡樸。每當我拿起相機示意要替他們拍照時，他們都很樂意，拍罷還嚷着邀我加入他們的聚會、嚐嚐他們的『依式』火鍋、開心果仁，或努力嘗試教我們他國的語言。

伊朗人 ---- 是我在旅途中遇到的最友善的外國人。論到邪惡，一萬倍不及我們的香港人吧！

伊朗行《2》--- Women Dress Code in Iran

By law, all females over the age of nine must wear the hejab, the general term to describe the type of Islamic dress required for females in Iran.

Signs in public places show two possible variants on correct hejab: The chador, an all-encompassing, head-to-toe black 'tent'; or a maqna'e (a wimple-like scarf-shawl) with a manteau (baggy trench coat) and trousers.

These days the 'style police' are not as busy as they once were and foreign women can get away with wearing their normal clothes, provided their head, shoulders, arms, legs and body are completely covered and the shape of their body is concealed.

That said, a female tourmate of mine was shouted by a conservative Iranian who tried to correct the situation as her scarf slipped back a bit too far while my friend Iris was warned by a 'style police' since her T-shirt was not loose and long enough. Ha! Ha!

Source: Lonely Planet

Photos taken in Isfahan, Iran Oct 2007

伊朗行《1》--- 向波斯帝國出發

子曰：『讀萬卷書，行萬里路』，剛考完本年度的第三個公開試，為了平衡心理，是時候向世界出發了！

很幸運，今年分別去了北海道及雲南旅遊，旅伴組合每次都不同，一次大夥兒浩浩蕩蕩去滑雪，一次與親人暢遊祖國，今回則與同事結伴尋幽探秘兼消假。

是次目的地很神祕、很特別、也很邪惡，就是具有豐富歴史文化的波斯帝國。

沿途若有機會上網的話，讓我嘗試報告一下行程吧！ I'll be back!

Sand Art

背蛙蝶捷

What hands can do ..

Facebook Mania

Should I go to Iran?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iran

http://wikitravel.org/en/Iran

http://www.irpedia.com/

http://www.infoplease.com/ipa/A0107640.html

http://www.persia.org/

A Relaxing Sunday in DB

Thanks a lot, Jacky, for lending me the wonderful lens for shooting. I'd definitely consider to buy one for my next trip.

Had lunch in Cafe de Paris. The set lunch there was really great and value-for-money. Better sit outside for taking pictures.

教我如何不想它

近期迷上這小玩意，它的魅力直逼Google、YouTube，有幾犀利？它能把與你從小談話不足五句的遠方/房親朋戚友聯繫上，再發現你親戚的同學的朋友原來是你同事；據聞在英國有大學畢業生透過facebook，聯繫上全國的大學生杯葛HSBC，成功令HSBC恢復對大學畢業生透支免息的優惠。

朋友們，唔想俾人話你out就快D join facebook 啦！